by Yan Giet
The final show slot of London Fashion Week A/W ’11 is the highest accolade a designer could ever dream of, which sets up unrealistically high expectations from the critical eyes of the industry. But KTZ (Kokon To Zai) need not have worried for it certainly delivered – by a masterpiece colourful mile and more. The show’s finale injected much needed colour and all-round zaniness, especially to the predictable menswear lines this year.
Alongside the clean cuts of Paul Smith and classics of Chanel, there always needs to be a KTZ-type show to continually push the creative boundaries of the fashion industry. The industry that we have all grown to know and love is sometimes in danger of lapsing toward overly stable and commercialised lines. In a nod toward diversity and freedom in creativity, KTZ stepped in with a show that was evocative of an electric shock, sending models in explosive design after design down the runway.
It was only after the initial "wow" factor that the genius behind the styling and design came to light. Chunky colour-block bangles were a recurring theme across the entire collection – fully embodying the mantra "if it doesn’t jangle then it’s not a bangle" to a new extreme. Harlequin influences were also subtly apparent with a modernised and futuristic twist. The balaclava was also out in abundance, perhaps playing homage to the unlikely muse of Channel 4’s "Phonejacker" – but also giving an element of mystery which is how KTZ playfully interacts with its audience. Other highlights include fur mixed with a transparent PVC coat – an allusion to this season’s Faux-real trend.
KTZ isn't wearable, nor does it pretend to be. But what it lacks in wearability it certainly makes up in bundles of fun and an ounce of cheek.
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